Thanks for covering this from top to bottom Bob- because i AM a novice! SA Dave did ask my question about using this on different paints- though I'm curious about enamel silvers like the Model Master paints, could this turpentine/ oil wash hurt THEM? Curious because silver is such a touchy color to mess with . Thanks for the inform here- alot of help! CR
Actually, that's a good question!
Whenever I use oils or enamels, I always use the rectified turpentine to thin or mix them. The only enamels I use are Humbrols and Testor's. The makers of Artist's rectified turpentine should use me as a spokesman. I love the stuff. It acts like any other thinner, the major difference comes in the application as well as the final finish.
Whenever I have used thinners or mineral spirits to wash, one thing I don't like it it tends to act like water on a waxed car finish. It doesn't flow well. It tends to ball up into little splotches. The turps flows like paint. The other thing is that when using thinner or mineral spirits in a wash, sometimes it will dry flat and sometimes not. Even if it does, it always seems to have these tiny thin lines between applications. The Turps never do that, they make the oil blend softly.
I have used rectified turpentine with all metallic enamels, no problem from the Humbrol buffable metallics to the Testor's gold, silver, brass and copper paints.
Now, if you mean your base coat was a Model Master silver or gold, then I have to tell you, I don't know, I have never washed any model with a silver base coat. I assume you are talking about a natural aluminum finish on an aircraft. I honestly don't know.
Bob