-
Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
This requires that you manually reset your password.
Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.
Lublin R.XIII Ter (1/48 Spojnia)
- Thread starter sharkman
- Start date
sharkman
Master at Arms
Thanks Chuk and James!
What I've learned so far on this build....
1. I hate photoetch!
2. liquid flux makes a world of difference
3. photo etch, for the most part, is pretty 1 dimensional (except for some parts)
4. soldering is definitely a challenge!
5. smaller diameter solder helps in smaller areas
6. be careful heating up 1 part that is already soldered as it might fall apart again once the heat is applied
7. patience is a virtue!
I've made a bit of progress and some of my joins are looking better. The seat turned out really well I think.
I've added in the rear seat and support, the front seat, foot pedals, throttle cluster, trim wheel and some wires. Some was soldered, some was CA'ed.
When I mentioned above that a lot of PE is 1 dimensional, most noticeable is the frame, the trim wheel, the spare ammo cases (I'll get to those), control knobs, etc... I've tried to fix a little of this by adding some styrene. For example, I added a little styrene disk behind the trim wheel.
The ammo cases were just flat disks so I punched a few disks out of some styrene sheet and glued 2 together, then CA'ed the PE disk to the top.
Last thing I did this evening was add the control stick/wheel and a few other parts. Almost ready to paint this...
Anyone know if this plane had simple lap belts?
What I've learned so far on this build....
1. I hate photoetch!
2. liquid flux makes a world of difference
3. photo etch, for the most part, is pretty 1 dimensional (except for some parts)
4. soldering is definitely a challenge!
5. smaller diameter solder helps in smaller areas
6. be careful heating up 1 part that is already soldered as it might fall apart again once the heat is applied
7. patience is a virtue!
I've made a bit of progress and some of my joins are looking better. The seat turned out really well I think.
I've added in the rear seat and support, the front seat, foot pedals, throttle cluster, trim wheel and some wires. Some was soldered, some was CA'ed.
When I mentioned above that a lot of PE is 1 dimensional, most noticeable is the frame, the trim wheel, the spare ammo cases (I'll get to those), control knobs, etc... I've tried to fix a little of this by adding some styrene. For example, I added a little styrene disk behind the trim wheel.
The ammo cases were just flat disks so I punched a few disks out of some styrene sheet and glued 2 together, then CA'ed the PE disk to the top.
Last thing I did this evening was add the control stick/wheel and a few other parts. Almost ready to paint this...
Anyone know if this plane had simple lap belts?
Good lord I would hope they had at least lap belts. I'd err on side of caution and add them Warren. Soldering looks great. Remember to use heat sinks between joints you're trying to solder, this would be a clamp or something to divert and lower the heat on one side of the part to the other that's been soldered.
sharkman
Master at Arms
They were basic punches (3/16, 5/32, & 1/8) that I got at Canadian Tire (hardware store here in Canada). I'll try and get a better picture of one.
sharkman
Master at Arms
If you go to the Source (Radi Shack) they have small clamps. I use them for holding smaller pieces together. They also have small heat sinks. Or at least they used to, cant seem to find it on the net now.
But they look like these:
James
Thanks James, I'll check it out!
sharkman
Master at Arms
Been doing a bit more to this one...
I added some wire bracing to the inside of the pit, just scraped out the molded ones first
cut the rudders off the floats..
I was messing around with it over the last few nights, painting and attempting some weathering. I tried to simulate a wood floor but I must not have cleaned up all the flux with the bath I gave the parts so some of the paint didn't take too well. It actually looks more like dirt than wood. But after breaking a few pieces off, I didn't want to mess with it anymore. It is what it is, I've learned my lesson and I didn't end up smashing it to bits!
Here's the other side, I scratched the little map pocket (I'll have to paint that).
So, while waiting for superglue and paint to dry, I got started on the engine! Began with carving out the holes of the cowl. I'm thinking of replacing the exhausts as they are basically crap.
Then I cleaned up the engine a bit and started adding inlet pipes from 1.6 mm solder wire. I'm thinking I'll replace the valve rods too.
That's it for the moment, should have the fuse closed up next time.
I added some wire bracing to the inside of the pit, just scraped out the molded ones first
cut the rudders off the floats..
I was messing around with it over the last few nights, painting and attempting some weathering. I tried to simulate a wood floor but I must not have cleaned up all the flux with the bath I gave the parts so some of the paint didn't take too well. It actually looks more like dirt than wood. But after breaking a few pieces off, I didn't want to mess with it anymore. It is what it is, I've learned my lesson and I didn't end up smashing it to bits!
Here's the other side, I scratched the little map pocket (I'll have to paint that).
So, while waiting for superglue and paint to dry, I got started on the engine! Began with carving out the holes of the cowl. I'm thinking of replacing the exhausts as they are basically crap.
Then I cleaned up the engine a bit and started adding inlet pipes from 1.6 mm solder wire. I'm thinking I'll replace the valve rods too.
That's it for the moment, should have the fuse closed up next time.
!
sharkman
Master at Arms
Thanks everyone!
A few more modifications tonight. Working with the vert and horiz. stabilizers. I thought I'd make these a little more realistic.
You can see where the mold lines are for the hinges, so I marked each one with a pencil and then cut the elevators and rudder free.
Used a pin vise to drill some new holes...
Then CA'd a little piece of wire to simulate a hinge and fixed the elevators in a downward position.
I also cut this portion of the main wing out and glued in a small piece of sprue for a grab handle.
and got the fuse glued together and puttied!
A few more modifications tonight. Working with the vert and horiz. stabilizers. I thought I'd make these a little more realistic.
You can see where the mold lines are for the hinges, so I marked each one with a pencil and then cut the elevators and rudder free.
Used a pin vise to drill some new holes...
Then CA'd a little piece of wire to simulate a hinge and fixed the elevators in a downward position.
I also cut this portion of the main wing out and glued in a small piece of sprue for a grab handle.
and got the fuse glued together and puttied!
sharkman
Master at Arms
On round 2 of putty, sand, repeat for the fuselage. this should be the last one!
While that's drying, I've been doing a little work to the main wing. I scribed out the ailerons a little more, was thinking of moving them but I decided to leave them in place. I used my razor saw to cut the edges and the port aileron was off a little so I had to fill and sand the grove.
The kit is molded with these great little actuator tabs so all they need is a small piece of wire.
Pin vise to the rescue and voila!
Last things this evening, I started to fill in the nasty grooves on the floats. After looking at some images online, it looks like these deep grooves were the manufacturers best attempt to portray the rivet lines. I have an idea how I am going to fix this. :evil:
While that's drying, I've been doing a little work to the main wing. I scribed out the ailerons a little more, was thinking of moving them but I decided to leave them in place. I used my razor saw to cut the edges and the port aileron was off a little so I had to fill and sand the grove.
The kit is molded with these great little actuator tabs so all they need is a small piece of wire.
Pin vise to the rescue and voila!
Last things this evening, I started to fill in the nasty grooves on the floats. After looking at some images online, it looks like these deep grooves were the manufacturers best attempt to portray the rivet lines. I have an idea how I am going to fix this. :evil:
Archer has your rivets if you need them, but looking forward to your solution Warren
sharkman
Master at Arms
Archer has your rivets if you need them, but looking forward to your solution Warren
I've never actually looked at Archer's site before. They have some pretty cool stuff! might be handy for some future builds. I might try something similar to what I'm doing to the B-25 for this though MP.