What tool is that EJ?
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E J's Wooden DC-3
- Thread starter MM2CVS9
- Start date
MM2CVS9
Active member
A mini cut off saw. I call it a mini power miter box. It has a 2" blade. I mounted it on a board for easy moving about and added extension tables either side of the machine, level with the cutting surface. Then added a tiny fence for easier alignment. Much the same customization I did for my Dewalt 12" sliding compound miter saw.
Looked at a few modelers type cut off saws, but they were in the $200 to $350 range. Way too rich for my blood. Saw a post on some forum about a saw at Harbor freight so went shopping. None on display, but found it under the display counter. $38.00 including tax.
This shows a cut on 1/4" X 1/2" balsa. This would be impossible on a "chopper" tool. The cut is perfectly square with nice sharp edges. No sanding or squaring needed. A "chopper" , even on small stuff like 3/32" sq or 1/8" sq stuff, always seems to cut leaving somewhat of a bevel so sanding to square it up is necessary. Not so on the saw. By pinning a stop block to the bed extension, I can make repetitive cuts easily, all exactly the same size and requiring no sanding. I tested it on some 3/8" X 1/2" poplar trimmings I had in the shop. This is the max size limit for the saw, maybe 1/2 X 1/2. This material has been laying around awhile and was well aged and hard. The saw bogged down about halfway through the cut, but I backed it out, then fed it slower and it completed the cut OK with a nice clean square cut. Balsa and basswood have been absolutely no problem.
Tried cutting some 5/64 X 3/16 styrene strip and it cuts clean with no burr.
I'm gonna try to order a couple extra blades for it.
I have bought two choppers, the first about $30.00. I wasn't satisfied with the cuts, and lost one of the plastic angle guides soon after.
The second, about $127.00 including two packets of replacement blades and shipping. Extremely well constructed tool and the operation was very nice, But still left somewhat of a bevel on both the cut piece and the offal piece. Might be I'm just too fussy. I do use it quite a bit though as its very handy for one - of cuts.
EJ
Looked at a few modelers type cut off saws, but they were in the $200 to $350 range. Way too rich for my blood. Saw a post on some forum about a saw at Harbor freight so went shopping. None on display, but found it under the display counter. $38.00 including tax.
This shows a cut on 1/4" X 1/2" balsa. This would be impossible on a "chopper" tool. The cut is perfectly square with nice sharp edges. No sanding or squaring needed. A "chopper" , even on small stuff like 3/32" sq or 1/8" sq stuff, always seems to cut leaving somewhat of a bevel so sanding to square it up is necessary. Not so on the saw. By pinning a stop block to the bed extension, I can make repetitive cuts easily, all exactly the same size and requiring no sanding. I tested it on some 3/8" X 1/2" poplar trimmings I had in the shop. This is the max size limit for the saw, maybe 1/2 X 1/2. This material has been laying around awhile and was well aged and hard. The saw bogged down about halfway through the cut, but I backed it out, then fed it slower and it completed the cut OK with a nice clean square cut. Balsa and basswood have been absolutely no problem.
Tried cutting some 5/64 X 3/16 styrene strip and it cuts clean with no burr.
I'm gonna try to order a couple extra blades for it.
I have bought two choppers, the first about $30.00. I wasn't satisfied with the cuts, and lost one of the plastic angle guides soon after.
The second, about $127.00 including two packets of replacement blades and shipping. Extremely well constructed tool and the operation was very nice, But still left somewhat of a bevel on both the cut piece and the offal piece. Might be I'm just too fussy. I do use it quite a bit though as its very handy for one - of cuts.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
Finished up the nacelles and sanded them out. Look good, and, they fit up very nice to the center wing section.
A couple pics of the assemblies laid out. I need to fair in and sand out the wing sections, the stabilizer and the rudder. It's to hot out today to do that in the workshop where I won't dirty up the model room with wood dust. Tomorrow is supposed to be cooler.
The blue card is the size of a credit card.
EJ
A couple pics of the assemblies laid out. I need to fair in and sand out the wing sections, the stabilizer and the rudder. It's to hot out today to do that in the workshop where I won't dirty up the model room with wood dust. Tomorrow is supposed to be cooler.
The blue card is the size of a credit card.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
I forgot. Looking at this thing I decided to count parts.
Fuselage - 63
Center wing section - 16
Right wing section - 26
Left wing section - 26
Stabilizer - 49
Rudder - 60
Nacelles - 11 ea, 22
Misc - 4
Main wheels - 11 ea - 22
1 wire
4 wood
2 molded plastic
4 vac formed plastic
Tail wheel - 5
1 wire
3 wood
1 molded plastic
Props - 16 ea - 32
1 wire
9 wood
1 molded plastic
5 vac formed plastic
Plastic trim parts - 8
Total parts, about 324
EJ
Fuselage - 63
Center wing section - 16
Right wing section - 26
Left wing section - 26
Stabilizer - 49
Rudder - 60
Nacelles - 11 ea, 22
Misc - 4
Main wheels - 11 ea - 22
1 wire
4 wood
2 molded plastic
4 vac formed plastic
Tail wheel - 5
1 wire
3 wood
1 molded plastic
Props - 16 ea - 32
1 wire
9 wood
1 molded plastic
5 vac formed plastic
Plastic trim parts - 8
Total parts, about 324
EJ
Thanks EJ, appreciate you taking the time to show this build. Looking great!
MM2CVS9
Active member
Spent a good part of the day out in the shop, planing and sanding. Nice work bench, coffee pot, oldies music and a good drafting chair. A few neighbors stopped by to see what was going on. Made for a great day.
Did the wings first.
Profile
Taper to the tip.
They came out nice.
Then the stabilizor
Broke a couple cross bits and had to replace them. Some of the balsa struts were of pretty soft wood.
Then the fin
Set the wings up with the center section and the tips propped up on 1 9/16" blocks.
Clamped the right and left sides to the center.
Removed the blocks and they stayed right where they were. PERFECT Dihedrel on both wings with no sanding, fillers or adjustments. I can't believe it!!
Tomorrow, start to spray a clear coat on it. Sanding sealer, sand lightly, then a couple semi gloss clear coats. Then assemble the large components.
EJ.
Did the wings first.
Profile
Taper to the tip.
They came out nice.
Then the stabilizor
Broke a couple cross bits and had to replace them. Some of the balsa struts were of pretty soft wood.
Then the fin
Set the wings up with the center section and the tips propped up on 1 9/16" blocks.
Clamped the right and left sides to the center.
Removed the blocks and they stayed right where they were. PERFECT Dihedrel on both wings with no sanding, fillers or adjustments. I can't believe it!!
Tomorrow, start to spray a clear coat on it. Sanding sealer, sand lightly, then a couple semi gloss clear coats. Then assemble the large components.
EJ.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Nice woodwork 
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
Spent a good part of the day out in the shop, planing and sanding. Nice work bench, coffee pot, oldies music and a good drafting chair. A few neighbors stopped by to see what was going on. Made for a great day.
Did the wings first.
Profile
Taper to the tip.
They came out nice.
Then the stabilizor
Broke a couple cross bits and had to replace them. Some of the balsa struts were of pretty soft wood.
Then the fin
Set the wings up with the center section and the tips propped up on 1 9/16" blocks.
Clamped the right and left sides to the center.
Removed the blocks and they stayed right where they were. PERFECT Dihedrel on both wings with no sanding, fillers or adjustments. I can't believe it!!
Tomorrow, start to spray a clear coat on it. Sanding sealer, sand lightly, then a couple semi gloss clear coats. Then assemble the large components.
EJ.
That's some wingspan. Nice profile, looking good EJ.
MM2CVS9
Active member
After finishing up a couple details and a final touch up sanding, I got ready to clear-coat. I had about 1/2 bottle of Aero Gloss dope sanding sealer, but wasn't sure it would be enough. So, off to the LHS. My favorite store did not have any. He said it was discontinued. Went to My other local store and that store has been transformed into a strictly drones and stuff like that.. No trains, no models, etc. Then went to Hobbytown, it was closed - out of business. GEEZE!
Went on line to Midwest Products. It is no longer in their catalog. Several other sites, the same thing. Sig has a similar product on their list, and Brodak Mfg has a line with sanding sealer and clear-coat in both Butyrate and Nitrate dope product line.
Since I'm not finishing a paper/silk-span cover, just the wood, I looked around my shop.
I have 4 gallons of Sherwin Williams sanding sealer and 5 gallons of their satin lacquer finish coat. I know how this stuff works as I've used hundreds of gallons of the stuff. So, that's what I did.
Worked great.
I might have to order a bit of the alternatives just to see how they work in case I do another kit with the cover. Heavens Eagle got me to thinking about flying again. I found it is possible to do a twin engine, with electric motors and RC controls. The single engine kits can be done with fuel motors and control wires, electric motors and RC controls, and they even sell them with the rubber band drives for free flight. The sky is the limit now.
Am I ever in trouble now!
By the way Moon Puppy, Brodak and Hobby King have 3 blade props in glass fiber in both right and left rotations. Gettin em ordered.
Anyway, I got everything coated with sanding sealer, sanded them down, one coat of clear lacquer. Waiting for it to dry and gas out before I bring them back in the model room. Then start assembly.
EJ
Went on line to Midwest Products. It is no longer in their catalog. Several other sites, the same thing. Sig has a similar product on their list, and Brodak Mfg has a line with sanding sealer and clear-coat in both Butyrate and Nitrate dope product line.
Since I'm not finishing a paper/silk-span cover, just the wood, I looked around my shop.
I have 4 gallons of Sherwin Williams sanding sealer and 5 gallons of their satin lacquer finish coat. I know how this stuff works as I've used hundreds of gallons of the stuff. So, that's what I did.
Worked great.
I might have to order a bit of the alternatives just to see how they work in case I do another kit with the cover. Heavens Eagle got me to thinking about flying again. I found it is possible to do a twin engine, with electric motors and RC controls. The single engine kits can be done with fuel motors and control wires, electric motors and RC controls, and they even sell them with the rubber band drives for free flight. The sky is the limit now.
Am I ever in trouble now!
By the way Moon Puppy, Brodak and Hobby King have 3 blade props in glass fiber in both right and left rotations. Gettin em ordered.
Anyway, I got everything coated with sanding sealer, sanded them down, one coat of clear lacquer. Waiting for it to dry and gas out before I bring them back in the model room. Then start assembly.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
Clear coated with sanding sealer, sanded out, one coat of clear lacquer. Allowed it to dry for a day or so, then began assembly of the major parts. Wings and center part, nacelles to the wings, stabilizer to fuselage, tail fin to stabilizer/fuselage assy.
Lastly, the wing assy to the fuselage.
I like it. The first plane model of any type I've done in about 60 years. I might have to get back into building some motorized babies that really fly. :yipee
Next, the landing gear, props, and plastic parts like the canopy, nose cowl, engine cowls and such. I need to get a quality "aluminum" paint for the plastics. Thinking of trying Alclad for that.
I thought I had found plastic props, but couldn't find any in the correct scale. No luck on Shapeways either. I would need 4 X 4, 3 blade props, one left and one right for this scale. So, I guess I'll just do the wood ones like they show in the instructions.
There will be an interruption in the build, as I'll be going to the 50th anniversary reunion of the USS ESSEX Association for a week. Being held in Louisville KY where the Association was formed, the year the ESSEX was decommissioned.
EJ
Lastly, the wing assy to the fuselage.
I like it. The first plane model of any type I've done in about 60 years. I might have to get back into building some motorized babies that really fly. :yipee
Next, the landing gear, props, and plastic parts like the canopy, nose cowl, engine cowls and such. I need to get a quality "aluminum" paint for the plastics. Thinking of trying Alclad for that.
I thought I had found plastic props, but couldn't find any in the correct scale. No luck on Shapeways either. I would need 4 X 4, 3 blade props, one left and one right for this scale. So, I guess I'll just do the wood ones like they show in the instructions.
There will be an interruption in the build, as I'll be going to the 50th anniversary reunion of the USS ESSEX Association for a week. Being held in Louisville KY where the Association was formed, the year the ESSEX was decommissioned.
EJ
Nice! She's big. 
MM2CVS9
Active member
Now the non wood parts and the vac formed stuff. I've never worked with vac formed parts. What kind of glue should I use for them?
The landing gear. Now I have to be careful so as to not break any parts loose and not break off the little projections. This might be the toughest part for me.
The landing gear instructions.
Tail gear parts, except the support wire.
Tail gear wire support, bent to shape and epoxied in place.
Main landing gear parts with the wire supports bent to shape.
I messed up on the wheels. Apparently, there used to be vac formed wheel halves that needed balsa disks glued inside of them to assemble correctly. My kit has moulded wheel halves. I tried assembling them with the balsa disks. The instructions show the vac formed assy in one place, then discusses the moulded wheels in another that I missed. My first try was a failure, so popped them apart, removed the balsa disks, cleaned them up and glued them together as in the picture.
EJ
The landing gear. Now I have to be careful so as to not break any parts loose and not break off the little projections. This might be the toughest part for me.
The landing gear instructions.
Tail gear parts, except the support wire.
Tail gear wire support, bent to shape and epoxied in place.
Main landing gear parts with the wire supports bent to shape.
I messed up on the wheels. Apparently, there used to be vac formed wheel halves that needed balsa disks glued inside of them to assemble correctly. My kit has moulded wheel halves. I tried assembling them with the balsa disks. The instructions show the vac formed assy in one place, then discusses the moulded wheels in another that I missed. My first try was a failure, so popped them apart, removed the balsa disks, cleaned them up and glued them together as in the picture.
EJ
EJ I would see if there's some aftermarket landing gear for one of the 1:32 kits. I'm sure you could figure out how to incorporate it into this.
That or use some brassrod to rebuild. That vacu form stuff leaves a lot of detail out.
Wow check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaUPk27edrc
That or use some brassrod to rebuild. That vacu form stuff leaves a lot of detail out.
Wow check this out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaUPk27edrc
MM2CVS9
Active member
WOW is right. He's got more skills and patience than I do, for sure.
I've spent several hours looking on line for 1/32 scale props and landing gear for DC 3 / C 47's with no success except for parts designed for actual flying aircraft with wire or RC controls and fuel or electric motors. Those landing gear are similar in design to that shown in the kit using a wire frame. It's designed to be springy so it flexes when landed. Props too. They are not true to form as they are designed to provide the proper "pull" with the motor being used. Plus, even those I couldn't find in the correct size. Also went to the RC dept of my LHS to see what they could come up with. Spent about an hour with them. They told me that scale models and RC / flying models were two different categories and most of the stuff doesn't cross over easily. I might do another Guillow's kit and RC it with electric motors. They had some great ideas.
The Guillow's kits were originally designed for wire guided flying as most of the kits had just one engine. They were models only in the sense they looked somewhat like a DC 3. With a paper skin and model dope finish, they were functional, so the landing gear and details were functional as well. I flew them 60 years or so ago with 127 cub or Fox 40 fuel engines. This guy has taken the kit to another complete level, making a rather accurate model of it. It's pretty amazing.
So, I think I'll just keep plodding along with what I've got and get this thing done. The box art was what cought my eye in the first place, so if I can come close to that I'll be happy. I might do something with brass rod and tupe for the front gear. We'll see.
There is a kit out by HPH - $1299.99. Holy Cow! I can find no 1/32 plastic kits that I could build up as a true model.
Off on my USS ESSEX reunion trip tomorrow. Next post - August 20 or so.
EJ
I've spent several hours looking on line for 1/32 scale props and landing gear for DC 3 / C 47's with no success except for parts designed for actual flying aircraft with wire or RC controls and fuel or electric motors. Those landing gear are similar in design to that shown in the kit using a wire frame. It's designed to be springy so it flexes when landed. Props too. They are not true to form as they are designed to provide the proper "pull" with the motor being used. Plus, even those I couldn't find in the correct size. Also went to the RC dept of my LHS to see what they could come up with. Spent about an hour with them. They told me that scale models and RC / flying models were two different categories and most of the stuff doesn't cross over easily. I might do another Guillow's kit and RC it with electric motors. They had some great ideas.
The Guillow's kits were originally designed for wire guided flying as most of the kits had just one engine. They were models only in the sense they looked somewhat like a DC 3. With a paper skin and model dope finish, they were functional, so the landing gear and details were functional as well. I flew them 60 years or so ago with 127 cub or Fox 40 fuel engines. This guy has taken the kit to another complete level, making a rather accurate model of it. It's pretty amazing.
So, I think I'll just keep plodding along with what I've got and get this thing done. The box art was what cought my eye in the first place, so if I can come close to that I'll be happy. I might do something with brass rod and tupe for the front gear. We'll see.
There is a kit out by HPH - $1299.99. Holy Cow! I can find no 1/32 plastic kits that I could build up as a true model.
Off on my USS ESSEX reunion trip tomorrow. Next post - August 20 or so.
EJ
Have fun EJ, I'm going to look at the show this weekend and see if maybe we can grab just the landing gear tree. If you hear about some fat guy trying to steal some plastic in Chattanooga this weekend, bring bail money.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Good looking build
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)