I think he posted it once before...got me. :drool :drool :drool
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Resistance Soldering?
- Thread starter Iron Mike
- Start date
I think he posted it once before...got me. :drool :drool :drool
I've read that article several times over the years, love to do something like that. If I had resistance soldering in my skills back in the day of the brass halftrack all those hinges would be working.
I obsessed about a lathe and now I have one..what have I done with it? But then again, what have I done with anything lately...
I obsessed about a lathe and now I have one..what have I done with it? But then again, what have I done with anything lately...
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
OK guys, I have stated it before about soldering that it isn't so much the tool as the process you use to solder. I use a 35watt iron and have very little difficulty soldering brass PE. It is the process I use and understanding how to get the heat and solder to transfer. (already did a big post and my connect dumped and lost it )
The basics are Flux, a CLEAN tinned tip on your iron and pre-tinning the area on the part you want the solder to go. "Wet" solder is what carries the heat to the part NOT touch. Using a dirty burned tip doesn't transfer the heat to the part and so the solder won't flow. A freshly wiped off tip that has just been re-tinned and has a small drop of clean solder will transfer the heat (and solder) to a flux coated part quick and nice. The same little drop of solder will also transfer heat and solder to a clean pre-tinned part just as nice.
One other thing, a super pointy tip cannot carry enough heat to solder brass parts it needs to be tapered, but still needs a blunt tip of sorts. I am way out of pocket at the moment so can't supply pictures, but will do so soon.
)The basics are Flux, a CLEAN tinned tip on your iron and pre-tinning the area on the part you want the solder to go. "Wet" solder is what carries the heat to the part NOT touch. Using a dirty burned tip doesn't transfer the heat to the part and so the solder won't flow. A freshly wiped off tip that has just been re-tinned and has a small drop of clean solder will transfer the heat (and solder) to a flux coated part quick and nice. The same little drop of solder will also transfer heat and solder to a clean pre-tinned part just as nice.
One other thing, a super pointy tip cannot carry enough heat to solder brass parts it needs to be tapered, but still needs a blunt tip of sorts. I am way out of pocket at the moment so can't supply pictures, but will do so soon.
ausf
Master at Arms
All true Paul, but RS is a bit different, it's not just another version of the same tool, it's a different tool.
Since it isn't a hot iron, there isn't an issue with surface area/heat and there's no pre tinning. The tungsten points I used were as sharp as a compass point and only need to make an electrical contact, not a heat bridge.
I sold mine off before I started SMD soldering and the way I'm going these days with Arduino and the like, I'll probably get another setup (or buy mine back, hint hint). Instead of having to limit the contact time with the iron, you can hold the point in place indefinitely, then depress the pedal and it's done in less than a sec. Never gets hot enough to burn the component as opposed to me with my Hakko. Currently I need to use a jig to hold the SMD LED, tape the pre tinned wires down in place over the contact points, add the flux and hope I'm not there too long with the iron. With the RS, I could hold the wire in place with the probe, flux and zap.
I think I just talked myself into getting another.
Since it isn't a hot iron, there isn't an issue with surface area/heat and there's no pre tinning. The tungsten points I used were as sharp as a compass point and only need to make an electrical contact, not a heat bridge.
I sold mine off before I started SMD soldering and the way I'm going these days with Arduino and the like, I'll probably get another setup (or buy mine back, hint hint). Instead of having to limit the contact time with the iron, you can hold the point in place indefinitely, then depress the pedal and it's done in less than a sec. Never gets hot enough to burn the component as opposed to me with my Hakko. Currently I need to use a jig to hold the SMD LED, tape the pre tinned wires down in place over the contact points, add the flux and hope I'm not there too long with the iron. With the RS, I could hold the wire in place with the probe, flux and zap.
I think I just talked myself into getting another.
At the rate I model, you can borrow mine until you get a new one. I bought it because I was afraid to use my torch or wireless iron around my son. He's 12 now and should know better.
Regards,
ausf
Master at Arms
I appreciate the offer Saul, it's very generous, but I'm hesitant to borrow tools (unless we're talking a wheel barrow or something), especially expensive ones. It would be one thing if I needed it for a quick project or something, but to borrow indefinitely is too much. I'd be afraid or putting the purchase on the back burner and forgetting about it.
If you wanted to sell it or trade for something, I'd be interested.
If you wanted to sell it or trade for something, I'd be interested.
ausf
Master at Arms
Looking over the AB website and eBay, they do sell the 100 watt base unit for $310 and you can find them used on eBay for $80-200.
They also sell the Super Chief, which is the base with the tweezers and foot with for $395. Deluxe version with a grounding vise base for a bit more.
The website isn't the best in terms of organization, but with some clicking you can find the breakdowns.
There is a techni tool place selling the base unit for $270.
All you need is a probe, foot switch and alligator clamp to get going, you can probably find those things piece meal on the cheap.
They also sell the Super Chief, which is the base with the tweezers and foot with for $395. Deluxe version with a grounding vise base for a bit more.
The website isn't the best in terms of organization, but with some clicking you can find the breakdowns.
There is a techni tool place selling the base unit for $270.
All you need is a probe, foot switch and alligator clamp to get going, you can probably find those things piece meal on the cheap.
I've wondered if you could peicemeal one together. Saul, since this thread has lived on, post up a picture of that grounding plate rig you have.
jknaus
Administrator
All true Paul, but RS is a bit different, it's not just another version of the same tool, it's a different tool.
Since it isn't a hot iron, there isn't an issue with surface area/heat and there's no pre tinning. The tungsten points I used were as sharp as a compass point and only need to make an electrical contact, not a heat bridge.
I sold mine off before I started SMD soldering and the way I'm going these days with Arduino and the like, I'll probably get another setup (or buy mine back, hint hint). Instead of having to limit the contact time with the iron, you can hold the point in place indefinitely, then depress the pedal and it's done in less than a sec. Never gets hot enough to burn the component as opposed to me with my Hakko. Currently I need to use a jig to hold the SMD LED, tape the pre tinned wires down in place over the contact points, add the flux and hope I'm not there too long with the iron. With the RS, I could hold the wire in place with the probe, flux and zap.
I think I just talked myself into getting another.
You should never use a resistance solderer with electronic circuits or components though. You'll zap them and fry whatever you are soldering.
James
ausf
Master at Arms
All true Paul, but RS is a bit different, it's not just another version of the same tool, it's a different tool.
Since it isn't a hot iron, there isn't an issue with surface area/heat and there's no pre tinning. The tungsten points I used were as sharp as a compass point and only need to make an electrical contact, not a heat bridge.
I sold mine off before I started SMD soldering and the way I'm going these days with Arduino and the like, I'll probably get another setup (or buy mine back, hint hint). Instead of having to limit the contact time with the iron, you can hold the point in place indefinitely, then depress the pedal and it's done in less than a sec. Never gets hot enough to burn the component as opposed to me with my Hakko. Currently I need to use a jig to hold the SMD LED, tape the pre tinned wires down in place over the contact points, add the flux and hope I'm not there too long with the iron. With the RS, I could hold the wire in place with the probe, flux and zap.
I think I just talked myself into getting another.
You should never use a resistance solderer with electronic circuits or components though. You'll zap them and fry whatever you are soldering.
James
Really? I can see how, but can't find any info against it, but there is info that it's okay for components and PCBs since the heat/current is only traveling between the points, taking the path of least resistance. I haven't tried of course and I wouldn't try to solder across an IC or something, but I would think hitting an anode on an LED is only going to touch the anode, not cross over to the cathode.
If you needed it for a project and I am not using it, I have no issue as you're literally less than half hour away. you probably know how to care for it better than I so again, no issue there.
Don't worry Bob, I did say I will get a photo of it all together probably tonight.
Regards,
All true Paul, but RS is a bit different, it's not just another version of the same tool, it's a different tool.
Since it isn't a hot iron, there isn't an issue with surface area/heat and there's no pre tinning. The tungsten points I used were as sharp as a compass point and only need to make an electrical contact, not a heat bridge.
I sold mine off before I started SMD soldering and the way I'm going these days with Arduino and the like, I'll probably get another setup (or buy mine back, hint hint). Instead of having to limit the contact time with the iron, you can hold the point in place indefinitely, then depress the pedal and it's done in less than a sec. Never gets hot enough to burn the component as opposed to me with my Hakko. Currently I need to use a jig to hold the SMD LED, tape the pre tinned wires down in place over the contact points, add the flux and hope I'm not there too long with the iron. With the RS, I could hold the wire in place with the probe, flux and zap.
I think I just talked myself into getting another.
You should never use a resistance solderer with electronic circuits or components though. You'll zap them and fry whatever you are soldering.
James
Really? I can see how, but can't find any info against it, but there is info that it's okay for components and PCBs since the heat/current is only traveling between the points, taking the path of least resistance. I haven't tried of course and I wouldn't try to solder across an IC or something, but I would think hitting an anode on an LED is only going to touch the anode, not cross over to the cathode.
I could see a problem going through a PCB, especially if they are layered.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I would not use one for any electronic components. Some components are extremely sensitive to high amps or voltages higher than rated. Only unit I have ever considered buying is one that had a variable wattage iron and a "hot air" iron. One of the local modelers found a new unit on sale for about $60 on Amazon I think.
As to soldering surface mount parts, I never had much trouble with it. Even the quad flat packs with over 100 pins were no real biggie with an iron.
As to soldering surface mount parts, I never had much trouble with it. Even the quad flat packs with over 100 pins were no real biggie with an iron.
These units have reostats on them so you can dial up or down how much wattage you pump out. I would think that the higher watt would work better on thicker material. someone check me if I'm wrong.
ausf
Master at Arms
I'm pretty sure I had the 100W, Saul will need to confirm that.
As Bob said, it's dial up and I think it was always kept very low on the gauge, so even if you went 250, you'd be okay. Since the modeler's version is 250, there may be a reason, but they also say it's good to solder O gauge track, which is much thicker than any PE brass plus it's steel. I'm pretty sure when I played around with the settings on brass shim, you could easily burn it if you turned the unit up too high.
I think the only real concern is that you get the proper probes for the base unit since the ratings change.
That's what makes me believe mine was the 100, because I had the smaller probe, but it's been years and I have the memory of a door knob. :hmmm
If you haven't seen it yet, this page shows the individual parts instead of sets:
https://americanbeautytools.com/models/rs
As Bob said, it's dial up and I think it was always kept very low on the gauge, so even if you went 250, you'd be okay. Since the modeler's version is 250, there may be a reason, but they also say it's good to solder O gauge track, which is much thicker than any PE brass plus it's steel. I'm pretty sure when I played around with the settings on brass shim, you could easily burn it if you turned the unit up too high.
I think the only real concern is that you get the proper probes for the base unit since the ratings change.
That's what makes me believe mine was the 100, because I had the smaller probe, but it's been years and I have the memory of a door knob. :hmmm
If you haven't seen it yet, this page shows the individual parts instead of sets:
https://americanbeautytools.com/models/rs