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SCHNELLBOOT S-100
- Thread starter fledermaus
- Start date
randy_ditton
Master at Arms
Hello Abdin, Amazing work as always from your bench 
Randy
Randy
fledermaus
Master at Arms
My friends James, Yago,Saul, Mike, Nerding, Moon Puppy, Bod, Luiz, Sharkman, MrT, Dusan and Randy thanks a lot!
Im finishing another set of photos and will be posting it soon, keep watching
Abdin :Hiay
Im finishing another set of photos and will be posting it soon, keep watching
Abdin :Hiay
fledermaus
Master at Arms
Hi my friends! More work on the pieces that needed some details of the boat, I’m getting
Close to finish the scratch work and start painting the beast. Continuing with the bridge area
This is the latest work
The radar antennas received the last details; two pieces of round styrene are used as supports
For the antenna mast, I used two PH pieces at the end where it attach to the map room roof to give it more detail
With the radar antennas finished I moved to make the radio antenna to the right of the map room, using
a spare antenna from the parts box I removed the top and replaced it with a piece of .040 x 55mm long
brass rod. At the bottom a piece of .060 x 9mm round styrene rod is glued to make the antenna body.
Then a piece of .010x 2.5mm long styrene tube is glued to it.
After cutting the plastic antenna I drilled a hole for the new one
Now to make the holder for the antenna, cut a piece of .025 styrene 3 x 3.5mm and 8 pieces of rod .025 x 1.5mm
long, this are then glued to each corner on both sides.
The holder is glued to the antenna
Now cut 4 pieces of PH carrier 3mm long x1mm wide
Glue two on each side, finish with brass bolt heads and wing nuts on both sides
Here is the finished antenna installed, a piece of fine solder wire is used as the cable
With all the antennas done its time to make the catwalk for the rear of the map room, this are
Apparently made by the crew, after studying the available photos it was constructed using
4 strips of .020 styrene 38mm long by 3.25mm wide
Shorter pieces of the same plastic serve as the mounts for the catwalk
It looks like this installed
Now the wheelhouse radio is made using parts from the Dragon German communication center kit #3826
Use the parts from radio E in step 5
Use parts E14, E20 and E15 and glue it as per instructions, now take part E9 and sand to match E14 size. Glue
E9 to E14 side by side. Remove the lower shelf and make a piece for the rear and the top of the radio
Now using styrene sheet make the new storage shelves
After the shelves are finished I removed all the details from the original radio and made the new details using styrene pieces to make it look more like the one used on the boats
Finally I used some PH spares to make the last details on the radio
And the original radio comparison
I’m working on the wheelhouse clock and Dragon dingy and some small details so more soon
Thanks
Abdin
Close to finish the scratch work and start painting the beast. Continuing with the bridge area
This is the latest work
The radar antennas received the last details; two pieces of round styrene are used as supports
For the antenna mast, I used two PH pieces at the end where it attach to the map room roof to give it more detail
With the radar antennas finished I moved to make the radio antenna to the right of the map room, using
a spare antenna from the parts box I removed the top and replaced it with a piece of .040 x 55mm long
brass rod. At the bottom a piece of .060 x 9mm round styrene rod is glued to make the antenna body.
Then a piece of .010x 2.5mm long styrene tube is glued to it.
After cutting the plastic antenna I drilled a hole for the new one
Now to make the holder for the antenna, cut a piece of .025 styrene 3 x 3.5mm and 8 pieces of rod .025 x 1.5mm
long, this are then glued to each corner on both sides.
The holder is glued to the antenna
Now cut 4 pieces of PH carrier 3mm long x1mm wide
Glue two on each side, finish with brass bolt heads and wing nuts on both sides
Here is the finished antenna installed, a piece of fine solder wire is used as the cable
With all the antennas done its time to make the catwalk for the rear of the map room, this are
Apparently made by the crew, after studying the available photos it was constructed using
4 strips of .020 styrene 38mm long by 3.25mm wide
Shorter pieces of the same plastic serve as the mounts for the catwalk
It looks like this installed
Now the wheelhouse radio is made using parts from the Dragon German communication center kit #3826
Use the parts from radio E in step 5
Use parts E14, E20 and E15 and glue it as per instructions, now take part E9 and sand to match E14 size. Glue
E9 to E14 side by side. Remove the lower shelf and make a piece for the rear and the top of the radio
Now using styrene sheet make the new storage shelves
After the shelves are finished I removed all the details from the original radio and made the new details using styrene pieces to make it look more like the one used on the boats
Finally I used some PH spares to make the last details on the radio
And the original radio comparison
I’m working on the wheelhouse clock and Dragon dingy and some small details so more soon
Thanks
Abdin
Fantastico!
Saludos,
Saludos,
I could just eat this up with a spoon
phantom II
Master at Arms
I have been watching this build for months and this is still the only thing I can do
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
fledermaus
Master at Arms
Guys thank you all, still more to come :gogo
:gogo
fledermaus
Master at Arms
Continuing with the detailing is now the turn for the wheelhouse clock, to make it I used two
Pieces of round tube. One 8mm x 2.5mm long and one 7mm x1.5mm long
This are glued together
Then a styrene strip of 1.5mm was glued to the smaller end.
I did a scan of one of the original clock and reduced it to about 6.4mm diameter
The details of the hinge and door lock are done now
Here the completed clock, the glass is made with clear styrene and a piece of PH from the Edward detail set is used as the frame for the glass.
The finished and painted clock, it is the first part of the boat to receive paint!
The original clock
Now the center compass received a couple more details, the rectangular box on its side
Is supposed to be an access door. So I corrected the shape to look more like the original
The area is sanded down in a round shape
With bits of styrene I created the door hinge
Finally the door knob is made and glued in place
Now it looks like the original
Now is the dingy turn for some detailing, I used the dingy from dragons kit #6076
After assembling it, all the details are sanded off leaving only the tie downs for the main rope around the dingy.
The gaps around the bottom piece are filled and sanded smooth
The new bases for the oars are constructed with styrene; also 3 seats are made also from styrene
Here it is finished just awaiting paint and the rope around it
Now the back light gets a new stand tube and base, in the instructions it is glued to the back wall of the hatch cover, but in reality it goes behind the wall on the floor. I cut the small tube and replaced it with a new one measuring .050x16.5mm long. The base is a 3mm dia. styrene disk
Here the locating slot is filled with a piece of styrene; the real light goes behind this wall bolted to the floor
Here is its new location
That’s all for now, it seems I will be scratch building the mines too as I can’t find any of the resin ones on the net.
Moore soon and thanks for watching!
Abdin
Pieces of round tube. One 8mm x 2.5mm long and one 7mm x1.5mm long
This are glued together
Then a styrene strip of 1.5mm was glued to the smaller end.
I did a scan of one of the original clock and reduced it to about 6.4mm diameter
The details of the hinge and door lock are done now
Here the completed clock, the glass is made with clear styrene and a piece of PH from the Edward detail set is used as the frame for the glass.
The finished and painted clock, it is the first part of the boat to receive paint!
The original clock
Now the center compass received a couple more details, the rectangular box on its side
Is supposed to be an access door. So I corrected the shape to look more like the original
The area is sanded down in a round shape
With bits of styrene I created the door hinge
Finally the door knob is made and glued in place
Now it looks like the original
Now is the dingy turn for some detailing, I used the dingy from dragons kit #6076
After assembling it, all the details are sanded off leaving only the tie downs for the main rope around the dingy.
The gaps around the bottom piece are filled and sanded smooth
The new bases for the oars are constructed with styrene; also 3 seats are made also from styrene
Here it is finished just awaiting paint and the rope around it
Now the back light gets a new stand tube and base, in the instructions it is glued to the back wall of the hatch cover, but in reality it goes behind the wall on the floor. I cut the small tube and replaced it with a new one measuring .050x16.5mm long. The base is a 3mm dia. styrene disk
Here the locating slot is filled with a piece of styrene; the real light goes behind this wall bolted to the floor
Here is its new location
That’s all for now, it seems I will be scratch building the mines too as I can’t find any of the resin ones on the net.
Moore soon and thanks for watching!
Abdin
Thank you! Not sure what I love most, the clock or the step by step process you shared with us.
fledermaus
Master at Arms
Hello to all my friends finally got the time to do another update on the schnellboot build. I have being
Looking for a set of cammett mines for a while now with no results, so I set to make my own set. Just when I finished the first mine I came across a big lot of parts for the schnellboot on ebay and there Was the cammett mines. This will make things easier and now I have more time to focus on painting Still I added missing details from the cammett mines , so here is what it’s being done till now.
The cammett mines, very nice detail on it as it comes
Before I began assembling the mines I made a resin mold of it as I wanted to have 6 mines on my boat
and the cammett set comes with only 4, here is the mine cart and complete mine with the original
I needed to make some of the parts from scratch like the PE hooks, lift eyes and other pieces. I started
by the hooks used to keep the mine secured on top of the cart
A piece of styrene of 2mm wide is cut
Next one corner is made round
The other side is sanded to shape with a semi round file
Now it is cut to 2mm long
Finally a small disk of is cut to make the base of the hook, I replaced all the hooks on all the mines 18 in total
Comparison with original PE hook
The extra lift eyes needed are made, measuring 2.5mm wide by 3mm tall and all are replaced with the
plastic ones
Here the hooks are glued in place; it needs to align with the mine support on each side
Now the mine cart received handles made with cooper wire and the lift eyelets on its sides
22 plastic reinforcement’s triangles are made for the guard’s plates to be used on the 2 extra carts each
Is 5mm long by 1mm tall
The triangles mounted on the spare PE guards from the cammett kit (4 spares are included)
A small disk 2mm diameter is drilled to the cable diameter and glued to the cart where the lower cable
comes out
With cooper wire of .04 diameter I constructed the cables for the mines, 3 strands are twisted together
Then the end is bend to shape
The release linkage has to be scratch build as the PE one in the kit is a …... the original is cut in
two parts Each about 5mm long
A piece of small chain is attached to it
\
The cable drum is attached and a piece of .040 cable glued to the back of the drum
After drilling the hole, glue the pin with the chain in place
Glue the cooper cable on the lower hole
Pass the drum cable trough the chain and lower cable and connect it to the front of the weight, you need to make the drill on it first.
To make the shackles for the mine main cable I used 0.85 diameter soldering wire
Pass the shackle trough the loop of the main cable on top of the cart and glue it in place
To make the mine release rod I used two chain links and cooper wire soldered together , then used a piece of 0.40 hex rod to form the complete part
Using the same cooper wire, bend it in a hook shape and then flatten it, the final length is 5mm long
The third hook is glued just above the solder line on the mine, not where the cammett instructions tell
You to.
With cooper wire make the two securing wires that hold the mine to the cart
Finally the release rod is installed in place, the cooper hook is glued to the pin with the chain, now It only needs paint..
The painting process of the boat has already began, the boat is painted in its basic colors and more to
paint, here are a couple of pictures
Had to photograph it outside as the work table is full of paints and parts, sorry about that
Thanks to all and sorry for the long delay
Abdin
Looking for a set of cammett mines for a while now with no results, so I set to make my own set. Just when I finished the first mine I came across a big lot of parts for the schnellboot on ebay and there Was the cammett mines. This will make things easier and now I have more time to focus on painting Still I added missing details from the cammett mines , so here is what it’s being done till now.
The cammett mines, very nice detail on it as it comes
Before I began assembling the mines I made a resin mold of it as I wanted to have 6 mines on my boat
and the cammett set comes with only 4, here is the mine cart and complete mine with the original
I needed to make some of the parts from scratch like the PE hooks, lift eyes and other pieces. I started
by the hooks used to keep the mine secured on top of the cart
A piece of styrene of 2mm wide is cut
Next one corner is made round
The other side is sanded to shape with a semi round file
Now it is cut to 2mm long
Finally a small disk of is cut to make the base of the hook, I replaced all the hooks on all the mines 18 in total
Comparison with original PE hook
The extra lift eyes needed are made, measuring 2.5mm wide by 3mm tall and all are replaced with the
plastic ones
Here the hooks are glued in place; it needs to align with the mine support on each side
Now the mine cart received handles made with cooper wire and the lift eyelets on its sides
22 plastic reinforcement’s triangles are made for the guard’s plates to be used on the 2 extra carts each
Is 5mm long by 1mm tall
The triangles mounted on the spare PE guards from the cammett kit (4 spares are included)
A small disk 2mm diameter is drilled to the cable diameter and glued to the cart where the lower cable
comes out
With cooper wire of .04 diameter I constructed the cables for the mines, 3 strands are twisted together
Then the end is bend to shape
The release linkage has to be scratch build as the PE one in the kit is a …... the original is cut in
two parts Each about 5mm long
A piece of small chain is attached to it
The cable drum is attached and a piece of .040 cable glued to the back of the drum
After drilling the hole, glue the pin with the chain in place
Glue the cooper cable on the lower hole
Pass the drum cable trough the chain and lower cable and connect it to the front of the weight, you need to make the drill on it first.
To make the shackles for the mine main cable I used 0.85 diameter soldering wire
Pass the shackle trough the loop of the main cable on top of the cart and glue it in place
To make the mine release rod I used two chain links and cooper wire soldered together , then used a piece of 0.40 hex rod to form the complete part
Using the same cooper wire, bend it in a hook shape and then flatten it, the final length is 5mm long
The third hook is glued just above the solder line on the mine, not where the cammett instructions tell
You to.
With cooper wire make the two securing wires that hold the mine to the cart
Finally the release rod is installed in place, the cooper hook is glued to the pin with the chain, now It only needs paint..
The painting process of the boat has already began, the boat is painted in its basic colors and more to
paint, here are a couple of pictures
Had to photograph it outside as the work table is full of paints and parts, sorry about that
Thanks to all and sorry for the long delay
Abdin
Incredible.
I'm in awe of how you can recreate these parts, and so consistently at that!
I'm in awe of how you can recreate these parts, and so consistently at that!